Our visit as well as my lecture in the northeastern coastal region of South Korea was arranged by Ms. Eungyeong Kim. Ms. Kim, lecturer at Gangneung Wonju University, had contacted me three years prior and requested me to visit her region during Mago Pilgrimage. We visited several cultural and natural sites including the three Seonghwang Shrines, Buddhist temple, Rock of Mago Halmi, and Rock of Mago.
Traditionally, this region is famed for high Neo-Confucian culture during the last Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897). That meant we were stepping into the area wherein male leadership characterized the local culture for the last few centuries. I could sense that highly valued order, balance, and accuracy were embedded in the life of people. The triad symbol was strikingly visible all around us. Not only the three Seonghwang Shrines but also the female triad divine venerated in them. The Seonghwang Shrine refers to a Korean indigenous shrine. And the shrine comprised the three chambers. The triad symbol goes on: The origin story of the shrine involved three geese. Sotdae (the wooden pole that symbolizes Magoism) had the carving of three geese atop. Ancestral tablets came in three.
At another level, the Female Seonghwang Shrine was balanced with the Male Seonghwang Shrine. One may assume that the male-female balance follows the Chinese heterosexual model, a patriarchal device that subjugates the female to the male principle. Intriguingly, however, such female-male balance did not render the pantheon of the female triad divine in the case of Gangmun Seonghwang shrine! We found female triad ancestral worship in the Male Seonghwang Shrine as well! Their ancestral tablets bespoke that villagers deemed themselves as the descendants of the female triad. We were given their titles, the Deity of Seonghwang at the center flanked by the Deity of Earth and the Deity of Disease or Smallpox. That substantiates difference between traditional Korean society and Chinese patriarchal society, an insight that Matrina Deuchler maintains.[1] Deuchler, having researched familial institutions and inheritance customs during the late period of Goryeo (918-1392) and the early period of Joseon, shows that traditional Korean society, unlike China, operated a gender-balanced system in which women held equal rights as men. When it comes to gender principle, Korean traditional society, as the whole world fell under patriarchal history, accepted a form of patriarchy on the outlook. Facing the pressure of patriarchal culture from China and India in particular, however, traditional Koreans were able to shape a gynocentric form of gender-balanced society in which preserved the female principle, the legacy of ancient Magoists. In short, villagers of Gangmun sustained the female-male balance of Magoism to this day throughout the vicissitudes of misogynist cultural inventions spawned by the Neo-Confucian social order that took root in the late Joseon period and was consolidated during the Japanese colonial rule and the Korean War.
[1] See Martina Deuchler, The Confucian Transformation of Korea: A Study of Society and Ideology (Cambridge, Mass.: Council on East Asian Studies, Harvard University; Distributed by Harvard University Press, 1992). Cited in Helen Hye-Sook Hwang, “Korean History and Religion Viewed from a Gender Perspective 성의 관점에서 본 한국역사와 종교 (I): Korean Women during the Koryo and early Choson periods 고려말 조선초 한국 여성들,” in Segyeo-ui Sinhak (Theology of the World) Vol. 52 (Fall 2001), 175-208” and “Korean History and Religion Viewed from a Gender Perspective 성의 관점에서 본 한국역사와 종교 (2): Medieval Korean Women’s Movements of Tantric Buddhism and Korean Alphabet 중세 한국 여성들의 탄트릭 불교와 한글운동,” in Segyeo-ui Sinhak (Theology of the World) Vol. 54 (Spring 2002), 247-282.
The first place we visited was the old town of Gangmun in Gangneung (강릉) City. Gangmun is known for her ancient faith practice of Seonghwang (城隍, Moated Stronghold), whose origin I trace in the Magoist Budo civilization in the third millennium BCE.[i] Unfortunately, the topic of the Seonghwang Shrine remains largely misrepresented and its discussion is complex. Suffice it to say that it refers to a Magoist Shamanic shrine and a village center wherein villagers practiced and preserved Magoism throughout generations. We were there to visit what Gangmun is best known for: The three shrines, the Female Seonghwang Shrine, the Male Seonghwang Shrine, and the outdoor place of Jinttobaegi Seonghwang (진또배기 성황).
The Female Seonghwang Shrine (여성황당, Yeo Seonghwang-dang) sits on the ground under the Peak of Juk-do (Big or Bamboo Island), a low hill by the seashore. Below the peak amidst its waist, nettle trees are lined up, looking down the roof of the shine. The shine building, small in size, exudes a swirl of high energy in the air. Having three chambers, it enshrines the female triad in the middle chamber.
Our guide, Mr. Yeongmok Jang (80 year-old), an elder of the village, told us the origin story of the shrine. About four hundred fifty years ago, three geese flew from Mongolia and sat on the current spot. Villagers deemed the place sacred and began to offer rituals. At the beginning, the shrine had no structure but was marked by a rock and a small edifice made from rice-straw. The present shrine building was from two hundred some years ago, the late Joseon period (1392-1897).
The next shrine, Jinttobaegi Seonghwang, was an outdoor open space made into a park wherein numerous jinttobaegis better known in other regions as sotdaes (솟대 wooden poles with carved three geese atop) stood in different heights. This place is deemed as one of the three shrines in Gangmun together with the Female Seonghwang Shrine and the Male Seonghwang Shrine. All three are located in proximity within 100 meters from each other. According to Mr. Wongeun Kim, a representative of the Gangmun Fishing Community, the tallest sotdae is re-constructed every three years upon the ritual of Pungeo-je (calming the wind for sea voyagers). Other data show that the tallest sotdae is designated as the focus of worship in this outdoor shrine.
The third shrine, the Male Seonghwang Shrine (숫성황당, Sut Seonghwang-dang or 남성황당, Nam Seonghwang-dang), was of a small hut-like structure with only one chamber. It was located in a weedy lot near a rice paddy. Pine trees surrounding the shrine added an air of sacredness. Inside, there were three ancestral tablets on a crudely raised alter leaning against the cement wall. Each of the three ancestral tablets reads the name of the three Goddesses; the Deity of Seonghwang at the center flanked by the Deity of Earth and the Deity of Disease. Although their names are stripped of the female connotation (to be precisely, the neutral is assumed as female), they are said to be Goddesses. All three deities are deemed as female nationwide in Korea. Mr. Jang explained how they ended up being enshrined here: Having been abandoned by the Gwon clan, they were re-enshrined in a newly built shrine by villagers. Apparently, villagers named the new shrine the Male Seonghwang Shrine. This is somewhat expected given that the City of Gangneung boasts of an upscale Neo-Confucian culture as the birthplace of such renowned Neo-Confucian scholars as Yi Yulgok and the Heos (including Heo Gyun and Heo Nanseolheon) of the sixteenth century CE.
On April 15 by the lunar calendar, villagers invite Mudangs and offer rituals in all these three shrines. This ritual, Pungeo-je (풍어제 ritual of calming the wind for sea voyagers), is an old Shaman ritual for fishing villagers in Korea, performed for several days.
[i] On the Budo civilization, see The Mago Way: Re-discovering Mago, the Great Goddess from East Asia, Chapter 4.
See (Meet Mago Contributor) Helen Hye-Sook Hwang, Ph.D.
Reblogged this on The Land of the Wu 巫.
Reblogged this on 마고 아카데미 한국 and commented:
2015년 마고순례 강문 여성황당 등 마고삼신 전통에 대한 기행문입니다.