(Photo Essay 10) Goddess Pilgrimage 2017 by Kaalii Cargill

[Author’s Note: In July 2017, I set out on a 4 month pilgrimage to the Unites States, Italy, France, Spain, Lebanon, Jordan, and Egypt. I name it a “pilgrimage” because my main focus is what I call “visiting with the Grandmothers”, although I also encountered many other wonderful people and places. This series of Photo Essays is an invitation for you to visit with the Grandmothers I met on my journey . . .]

Lebanon – Afqa Grotto

On the ancient road between Byblos and Baalbek is the amphitheatre and cave system known as Afqa Grotto. A sanctuary of Astarte, Ishtar, and Aphrodite Aphakitis, the amphitheatre points to the summer solstice sunset over the Mediterranean. More recently Afqa Grotto was a place of pilgrimage for the Metawali sect of Shia Islam, who honoured the Sayyidat al-Kabirah or “Great Lady”. Up to the early 20th Century, Metawalis and Christians were bringing the sick to be cured at “the abode of Sa’īdat Afkā”. The sacred spring flows red in Spring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Baalbek – An ancient temple site in the Beqaa Valley, Baalbek sits upon a ‘tel’ or occupational mound on the trade route from Tyre to Palmyra, with signs of 8000-9000 years continual habitation. The Roman era temples are huge – the biggest ever built. Some of the foundation stones weigh hundreds of tons, and no one really knows how old they are (they predate the Roman era). Through the foundations of the temples run three enormous passages the size of railway tunnels, lined with huge, precisely fitted stone blocks, similar to the megalithic temples in Malta and the Valley Temple at Giza. If only the stones could speak . . .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tyre – the settlement has been dated to the start of the third millennium BCE, although archaeological work is limited due to dense urban development. Once again, there are Roman era buildings alongside Canaanite/ Phoenician and earlier structures. The Canaanite culture is thought to have developed in situ from the earlier Ghassulian Chalcolithic culture (5000-3800 BCE). The Tyrians were renown for the purple dye made from the secretions of the Murex shellfish. The name Phoinikes (Phoenicians) means “purple people”. It seems likely that the influence of the Phoenicians on classical culture may have been minimised and/or erased due to cultural and racial bias. There are, for example, links between the Phoenician culture of Lebanon and the Minoan culture in Crete – archaeologists have found that habitation ceased in Tyre and Sidon (c2000 BCE) at the same time that Minoan “palace” culture arose in Crete. After the eruption of the Santorini volcano (c1628 BCE), Sidon and Tyre were once again repopulated. See: Sandford Holst, 2006, Minoans and Phoenicians: Indigenous Development versus Eastern Influence.  

 

 

Meet Mago Contributor Kaalii Cargill