[Author’s Note: In July 2017, I set out on a 4 month pilgrimage to the Unites States, Italy, France, Spain, Lebanon, Jordan, and Egypt. I name it a “pilgrimage” because my main focus is what I call “visiting with the Grandmothers”, although I also encountered many other wonderful people and places. This series of Photo Essays is an invitation for you to visit with the Grandmothers I met on my journey . . .]
Jordan
Bedouin camps, goats, huge fortified castles with underground tunnels, figs straight off the tree, ancient ruins, standing stone circles, cave houses . . .
Visiting with the Grandmothers in Amman (Jordan Archaeological Museum and National Archaeological Museum). The “G” word – Goddess – is rarely used in museums here. More often the description is: “Figurine possible representing a deity.” There are very few figurines on display, and the explanation given is the unregulated looting of archaeological sites for treasure. It was good to find these . . .
Madaba is located in central Jordan, 30 kilometres south-west of Amman. Hidden away in the hills near Madaba are hundreds of dolmens and menhirs dated to 3500 BCE. The sites are not easy to find and are not looked after. On adjacent hillsides near a busy quarry only goats and donkeys now visit the remains of stone circles opposite dolmens and caves. Dolmens are single-chambered megalithic structures, usually consisting of two or more vertical megaliths supporting a large flat horizontal capstone – the capstone on this one is the size of a small car.
Petra is mainly recognised as the centre of Nabataean culture for about 600 years from c500 BCE. Archaeologists have also found items in a rock shelter dated to c10,000 BCE and a Neolithic village from the 7th Millennium. The Goddesses honoured at Petra were Al-Uzza and Allat, although there is little evidence of them now. On the upper level of the famous “Treasury” facade are bare-breated Amazons, winged Victories, and a central figure of Isis.
Meet Mago Contributor Kaalii Cargill