On a recent trip to Siberia, Mongolia and Western China, I was fortunate to learn about a number of local shamanic female divinities and their main worship sites. The goddess who is most well known started out as a shamanic spirit then transitioned over a century into the leading female divinity in the Taoist pantheon, the Queen Mother of the West. Her realm lies in the mythical Kunlun mountains in the far West of China, from where she bridges the three worlds, rules over time and space, and has the power to grant immortality, even as she oversees the souls of the deceased. The first mention of her is on an oracle bone from the Shang Dynasty (ca.1700-1100 BCE), where it says that by worshipping the Queen Mothers of the West and East gains one approval. Almost a millennia later, the next textual reference appears in the Taoist doctrine, the Zhuang Zi ca. 300 BCE. (Dashu) She was clearly a major force in the lives of the people in the intervening years, otherwise she would not have survived the test of time. As she is the goddess of time, a blink of an eye in her world may be a thousand years in this one, so it is not surprising that her presence has been perhaps the one constant feature of Chinese traditional religion since the Shang period. Her appearance and attributes, however, do undergo a transition from the shamanic wild tiger affiliated chimera with a leopard’s tail to an aristocratic grandmother in the Han dynasty. By the Tang period, she was also subjugated to the Celestial Kings, but she nonetheless maintained a strong presence.
As is often the case, when there is a mythical realm there is also a need for its representation in the material world. This is true for the Queen Mother’s Kunlun Mountains as well. Her dwelling place needed to be in a cave high up on a mountain looking over a large lake to mountains all around. As a goddess of fertility, the surrounding mountains should be green and vast, while those in the distance lead to the highest heavens. Around 1221, the first temple to the Queen Mother, Xi Wangmu, was built in the Tian Shan mountains (Heavenly Mountains) above Lake Tian Chi (Heavenly Lake). Today, after three renovations, the temple is a popular pilgrimage destination for worshippers from the Xinjiang region and beyond.
There is quite a process to get to the temple, starting from the parking lot of the site entrance with three separate bus rides, taking about 50 minutes to the Tian Chi Lake. After disembarking it is easy to see a boardwalk below that skirts the water’s edge. The Goddess’ temple is not visible as it is hidden behind a steep rock cliff that juts into the lake providing protection to the site. The walk circumnavigating the lower part of Tian Chi to the sacred region is just shy of two kilometers and offers a spectacular view of the lake and surrounding mountains. At the end of the boardwalk the steps up to the temple begin. By the entrance to the worship site, there is a large bell that should be struck by a very large log three times to announce one’s presence to the Goddess. From this first courtyard level more stairs lead to the second level where there are two side shrines, one dedicated to the Goddess, and one to the Celestial King, as well as rooms where people can purchase prayers and/or buy very large sticks, ca. a meter long, of incense as offerings. Yet another separate room is dedicated to priests who tell seeker’s their fortune based on how they interpret the Goddess’ message. From this level more stairs lead into the actual temple. The Queen Mother is represented as a golden statue with jeweled crown, flowing robes, and the chubby, ie. healthy, face of a warm-hearted grandmother. She is flanked by statues of the Wise Old Man and the Celestial King. The wall paintings are filled with phoenixes and dragons, both symbols of celestial power. This is her main temple worship site that was first constructed in the 13th C and has been continuously been in use, privately when otherwise forbidden, since then. It is not, however, her actual ancestral home. That lies in a cave a steep climb much further up the mountain. Her home relates to her early shamanic background as there are no images, just offerings to her on a medium sized table. The temple below is dedicated to her role in Taoism. The two form a perceptible bridge from this world to the heavenly world, while the steps down from her temple lead to the lake and underworld.
Queen Mother is known for her peaches, and while no peach trees were in sight as they only bear fruit every 1,000 years, an elm tree that given the habitat should not grow in the region, flourishes and takes on the role of the World Tree.
The temple of the “Goddess of the West” as the signs call her, unites the major ideas associated with this ancient divinity. It bridges the three worlds, has a tree that does so as well, is surrounded by lush, yet jagged, mountains and from her cave perch she could look out over the ever-white heavenly glaciers of the Tian Shan Mountains. Her crows and magpies are in physical evidence, while her tiger, phoenixes and dragons are artistically portrayed. She is as immortal as this region is, and it is her presence that brings thousands of Uighur and Han Chinese pilgrims to this far off the beaten track stunningly beautiful region.
For more information on the journey, please see my blog:
http://journals.worldnomads.com/krodin
For further reading on Xi Wangmu, Queen Mother of the West:
- Cahill, Suzanne E. (1993) [First published 1993]. Transcendence & Divine Passion: The Queen Mother of the West in Medieval China. Stanford University Press.
- Max Dashu (2010). “Xiwangmu: The Shamanic Great Goddess of China”. Academia.edu.
- Goldin, Paul R. “On the Meaning of the Name Xi Wangmu, Spirit-Mother of the West,” in Journal of the American Oriental Society, Vol. 122, No. 1, Jan.-Mar. 2002