There is a magic on the isles off the West of Scotland that I’ve never experienced anywhere else. A feeling of being at the edge of the world and at times it deepens into feeling you are at the edge of this world and peering into the otherworld. It is a place where worlds merge and ancestral voices whisper on the wind.
I have spent a long time pouring over maps, exploring the contours and plotting out the path to the Oracle’s Chamber. It’s a curious site which archeologists named which indicates how even they were affected by the air of mystery of this place. It was probably on Julian Cope’s site the Modern Antiquarian that I first read about this site. Then reading further archeological reports words such as ‘ritual enclosure’, ‘prehistoric’ began to feed the images and the daydreams.
Each year I lead the Ancestral Mothers of Scotland retreat to this little isle, the Isle of Egg (whose Gaelic name translates as the Isle of the Big Women). There is always a day midweek, as by this time the woman has gotten to know the island a little that they are invited to undertake a pilgrimage. We begin the day in silence and then each woman makes her ritual journey off to a particular place to spend the day. They are encouraged to perform a small ritual as they enter into a deeper level of conversation with the land. This is often a rare opportunity for women plus there is the added layer of feeling relatively safe as opposed to being out in nature in other parts of the world (human predators being the main risk). So I decided to make my own pilgrimage on this day. It was impressive that the journey to the Chamber took 18 miles on an island that is around 5 miles long and 3 miles across.
It was a very windy day and so being high on the cliffs was a little daunting, at times and I had to crouch down to traverse small sheep paths that had been made through scree slopes of landslides of rocks, boulders, and soil that had come tumbling down from the cliffs above. Often vertigo got the better of me and I slid down 20 meters or so on my backside just to stay safe and not be blown away! The view over to the Isle of Skye was stunning and I could see no signs whatever of human activity as if I had indeed slipped between worlds, or perhaps gone back in time.
The site area is in an area called the ‘Struidh’ which translates as rocky. I found myself scrambling over massive boulders, which often resulted in spaces between them suddenly dropping down 6 feet or so. I retreated for a while to find an archeologist photo which highlighted the entrance so I could work out its exact location. I rummaged and rummaged in my rucksack only to see it sitting by my bedside back at the hostel. It seemed an absolutely impossible task to find a small oval opening which was probably obscured by bracken.
A sign I thought, I need a sign – such as a small bird or a mystical gravitational pull. You need a signal seemed to be the reply. I need a sign, not a signal I thought – wondering if I was having this conversation with myself. I pulled out my phone to check the time and amazingly, on the remotest part of the island I had a phone signal! There was my sign! So I quickly looked up the archeological record and saved the photo highlighting the entrance. This way I could position the eagle rock with the cliffs and be able to work out where the entrance to the chamber (on relatively flat land) was located.
‘This unusual site is situated in the midst of a boulder field on the broken ground between the cliffs of Sron na h-Iolaire and the coast below. It consists of a substantial grass-and bracken-grown platform that measures about 20m from E to W by at least 10m transversely, on top of which there are the remains of a circular enclosure, probably a roundhouse, measuring about 6m in internal diameter within drystone rubble walls 2m thick. The wall thickens to 4m at the entrance to the enclosure where a narrow passage provides access to the interior. On the far side is the entrance to a large boulder cave that runs W beneath the enclosure wall. The main chamber of the cave measures about 7m from NE to SW by up to 3.5m transversely and 2.5m high; but there are other smaller chambers opening off to either side and at the end. The cave entrance and the sides of the chamber have been modified by the insertion of rough walling, while a thick deposit of midden material covers the floor. This includes animal bones, shells and broken hammerstones, some of which have a concretion of crushed shell to their points. Other hammerstones occur in the many small caves and voids found between and beneath the boulders nearby.‘ – Archeological Report/Canmore Record.
I sat quietly in the space. I looked at the shells and the hammerstone used to smash them. I have heard of folks who used this chamber to shelter from storms, then slowly I peeled back the layers of time and the people who came to visit this site.
Although I had researched this site and looked forward to visiting for over two years somehow it was more about the journey to this place – the physical and psychological barriers rather than reaching the place itself. The previous year I was packed and ready to make the journey but on awakening, I hadn’t felt quite right, and knowing it’s a physical journey I had decided not to go – which was the best decision as days later my not-quite-right feeling had turned into the Chicken Pox!
Slowly over the next few days, I kept returning to the place and the land released her story. It was as if my determination in reaching the place had been an initiation.
The Ancestral Mother who is associated with this place is known to me as Talieasker. I have known her many years as crow, and very fleetingly as owl but it was here on this island at the edge of the world that she revealed herself as Eagle.
So come meet Talieasker – click here to take the otherworldly journey and visit the Oracle’s Chamber
(Meet Mago Contributor) Jude Lally.