[Editor’s Note: This series is included as a chapter in Goddesses in Culture, History and Myth .]
Legends of the Goddess
View of Dragon Mt. and Lugu Lake from Goddess Gemu’s Cave, photo K. Rodin
The Naxi and the Mosuo may have originated from the same group in the distant past as they have similar funerary rites in which the soul of the deceased is guided back to the spiritual home of the ancestors. According to Knödel, during the ceremony a Daba practitioner or Dongba priest lists the places the soul is to travel. The journey begins at the place where the person resided during life and ends where the clan’s ancestors reside in the afterlife.[1] The ancestors live in physical places in the region; for the Mosuo in Yongning on Lugu Lake it is on the south side of Mt. Chha-na-dorje. The Lijiang Naxi, on the other hand, land on the holy mountain Junarulo.
Both Naxi and Mosuo identify themselves by clan, i.e., siri, which is like a lineage. According to Knödel, for the Mosuo the siri comprises the children of a particular mother. The children stay within the mother’s household; traditionally, the Mosuo did not marry, but instead had ahzu (often spelled ‘ahxia’) relationships, mutually agreed upon bonds between a couple that could be stopped at any time on the wishes of either party. As there is neither a financial nor social obligation to either partner, the Mosuo tend not to have acrimonious split-ups. The men visit the women at night, but leave before daybreak returning to their mother’s households where, as uncles, they help raise the children. Some of the current tourist information about the region cites Rock’s mistaken statement that the Mosuo do not know who their fathers are. While this is not accurate, it is true that fathers are not responsible for taking care of their offspring; instead they have the obligation to help take care of their nieces and nephews. The practice of matrilineal uncles being the leading male figures in the clan is not unique to the Mosuo, but is found in a number of other southern Tibetan and Northern Nepali cultures, including the Tamang, who share a number of other similar shamanic traditions with the Mosuo, although not the ahzu relationships. Chinese exploitation of these traditions with the intent to increase regional tourism has led to the misunderstanding that the Mosuo believe in “free love” with rotating partners every night, when in fact nothing could be further from the truth. Ahzu relationships, or ‘walking marriages’ are often for a lifetime.
The concept of Mosuo “walking marriage” goes back to the Goddess Gemu in their creation stories, of which there are many. One of the most common is that Gemu was the most beautiful girl in the known world. She fell in love with Hu Zhau, a dragon and he with her. This was a forbidden love as dragons belong in heaven and people on earth. Nonetheless, the two lovers arranged to meet at night; Hu Zhau would go to Gemu’s house after dark where they would then spend the night together. Hu Zhau always had to leave before daybreak so no one would know about their relationship. One night, he fell into a deep sleep and didn’t wake up in time. Heavenly King found out and decided to punish him by turning him into a mountain. Gemu was so upset that she cried and cried and cried; over seven days and nights her tears created Lake Lugu, which took the shape of a broken heart. Heavenly King then turned her into a mountain as well, where she rules from a cave. Today the mountain lovers still meet crossing the waters after dark. Gemu is the female mountain, which is also called the Lion Mountain as it looks like a lion lying on its side; it is on the left of the Dragon Mountain, which is a reversal of typical traditional Chinese gender role placement. The Goddess resides within a large cave from where she judges people after death and sends those who haven’t been good down the dark unending hole of Hell, while those who were good ascend to Heaven.
There are many versions of her story. In some she was at one time a young human girl whom the god of the sky wanted for himself. In others, she is a sky god from the beginning. In either case, she was unhappy in the sky and fell into a forbidden love, which led to an ahzu relationship. A different version recounted by a young Yongning townswoman, Sadama, is that Gemu was a very beautiful girl who all the boys and men wanted to marry, but she wasn’t interested in any of them. She was renown for her winemaking skills, so she said that whoever came and drank her wine and didn’t get drunk was the one she would marry. Her wine was so good, though, that everyone did imbibe too much. Then one day when she was at a festival she saw a young handsome archer, Hulung. The two immediately fell in love. The sky god interfered forbidding their marriage as he wanted Gemu for himself, wine is after all the drink of the gods. Hulung warned Gemu to run away and save herself, but she wanted to stay with him no matter what happened. He threw a special necklace his mother had given him for protection to Gemu, but she wasn’t able to catch it. The great god in his jealous anger turned both of them into mountains; they could see each other but never touch. For the Mosuo the idea of “walking marriages” extends even to the heavens. It is said that the moon is the ahzu of the sun, although he visits her only once a month. Venus is considered the azhu of Polaris, although he visits her only once a year.[2]
[1] Knödel, 214-215.
[2] Chuan-kang Shih, “Mortuary Rituals and Symbols among the Moso,” Naxi and Moso Ethnography: Kin, Rites, Pictographs, eds. Michael Oppitz and Elizabeth Hsu (Zürich: Völkerkundemuseum ,1998), 228.
(To be continued.)
Meet Mago Contributor, Krista Rodin.