The so called “Venus” figurines are prehistoric figurines that I prefer to call “Grandmothers”. The figurines were carved from soft stone, bone or ivory, or formed of clay and fired. Over the last 5 years, I have been visiting with the Grandmothers from prehistory to classical times. This series of posts includes images and impressions of those visits.
ELEFSINA, GREECE
On my first day in Athens I took the bus to Elefsina, a town about 18 kilometres northwest of the city. The bus moved slowly with the traffic along the ancient Sacred Way (Iera Odos) where people once walked in procession to celebrate the Eleusinian Mysteries. No one really knows what happened in the seasonal initiation rituals based on Persephone’s descent and return from the Underworld, but the rites were celebrated for thousands of years and were thought to keep the World in balance.
Today the Sacred Way is surrounded by urban development, and Elefsina is a major industrial area. Yet I could still imagine the sacred procession winding from Athens to Eleusis: initiates swinging leafy branches, singing, chanting, and shouting obscenities in commemoration of Baubo, the mysterious Greek Goddess who was bawdy, fun-loving and sexually liberated. Baubo – a ‘daughter’ of the ancient Mother Goddess, Cybele – was celebrated for consoling Demeter with ribald jesting when the Goddess was mourning the loss of Persephone.
The modern and ancient exist side by side in Greece – a kaleidoscope of images and impressions spanning millennia. We might assume that modern life represents the pinnacle of civilisation, yet where is Baubo now?
Baubo has been degraded into over-sexualised images of women and girls. The obscenities that were once shouted in sacred play are now directed at women as aggression, hostility, and violence. Along with Baubo, we have lost the myths and rituals that connect us to ourselves, each other, and the World.
At the core of the Eleusinian Mysteries was the myth of Demeter and her daughter, Persephone. The maiden Persephone was picking flowers when she was seized by Hades and taken to the Underworld. Demeter searched but could not find her daughter. In her distress, she stopped tending the Earth. Crops failed, bringing famine and suffering. Zeus intervened and sent Hermes to retrieve Persephone from the Underworld. Mother and daughter were reunited, and the land flourished again. Each year the cycle repeated, Persephone descending and returning, symbolising the changing seasons and the eternal return.
It seems likely that the Eleusinian Mysteries involved initiates in symbolic enactment of Persephone’s journey. Symbolic enactment invites engagement and suggests a possibility of transformation. It can also be confusing and frustrating. Symbols are not static – the meaning of a symbol changes from person to person and across time and place. Enactment ensures that the experience is alive in the moment, and ritual enactment ensures a safe place to engage the mysteries.
The ancients at the Demeter Sanctuary at Eleusis incorporated both symbol and enactment in the initiation process. Initiation always involves a crossing – from one stage to the next, from one identity to another. We like to think we can choose our crossings, but life has a way of choosing for us, and we are devastated by loss, shocked by betrayal, left anxious and fearful of change. The Eleusinian Mysteries offered a map for the journey.
Imagine yourself as an initiate. You may become Demeter, grieving unbearable loss and withdrawing from the World. Or perhaps you are Persephone, your life abruptly changed by forces outside your control. As you walk the path of initiation, guided by story and by those who have gone before, you encounter the Underworld of your own psyche and are transformed. Symbolic enactment takes us into and beyond our fears. We cross thresholds and return with sovereignty over ourselves, just as Persephone returns to the upper World and is also Queen of the Underworld.
Imagine how it would be to wake one morning knowing that today you will walk in procession from the city to a sanctuary by the sea, chanting and singing, shouting obscenities to Baubo, who laughs loudly and shouts right back. Imagine that today you will make offerings to Goddess and be guided through a ritual enactment of one of the great teaching stories, descending and returning transformed. Imagine . . .
I caught that bus to Elefsina to walk the marble paths of Demeter’s sanctuary. The marble is worn by the feet that came before, and the cicadas still sing praises to Nature. Standing there in the sanctuary, I caught an echo of the seasonal rituals of ancient Goddess religions. Based on cycles of death and rebirth, these rituals offer a very different perspective from patriarchal religious and scientific traditions. The ancient myths tell stories of eternally returning, of renewable creative experience, personally and collectively. Elefsina is one of the places where the stories were born.
A version of this account was published in Living Now, Australia, December 23, 2015.
Meet Mago Contributor KAALII CARGILL