(Essay 9) The Blending of Bön, Buddhism and the Goddess Gemu in Mosuo Culture by Krista Rodin

An Uncertain Future

Buddhist Temple with Bön and Goddess images at Goddess Gemu Cave. Photo K. Rodin

One of the ways the legends have been popularized and coopted is in the public murals that grace the wall outside the Yongling Tourist Office. In keeping with the patriarchal religious traditions of the region, only lamas are allowed to make storyboard murals and paintings, or to interpret them, even when they are placed in public spaces. This means that unless there is a general knowledge of the symbolism and iconography that is associated with the images, the interpretation is subject to guesswork. The murals are supposed to represent scenes from Mosuo history and legends, including a story of the seven fathers and seven stars, six in the sky and one below the earth under the waters. One of the murals is reminiscent of PadmaSambhava, and as this region follows the Black Hat tradition, the great yogi is worshipped, although it may not be intended to be his image. There is a mural of a fire prayer and the worship of fire, as well as scenes of making wine and of carrying water, singing, dancing, and of the former ancient King. The Goddess Gemu is on the last panel riding her white mare, with her rainbow-colored streamers flying in the wind.

There is a clear merging of iconographic imagery among the three religious traditions in Mosuo culture, which also makes for vivid tourist posters. Both Green and White Tara appear in the temples alongside the Goddess Gemu and not a few images the Goddess take on Tara’s attributes. The murals in Yongning’s central square demonstrate this merger through a highly selective representation of Mosuo myths that are intended to portray a harmonious, pure and peaceful society. The Bay of the Goddess, a special sacred site on the lake, has so far not been disturbed by the influx of tourism, but these new forces are some that she may not be able to overcome.

The seemingly binary opposites of earth and sky, mountain and lake, male and female, shamanism and monasticism, the Goddess and the Buddha became equally balanced in traditional Mosuo culture, even if not in the region’s political sphere. The increase in tourism, however, is changing these configurations by popularizing both Mosuo and Buddhist cultures in the region as tourist attractions. The cable car to Gemu’s sacred cave, the vendors, often not Mosuo, renting costumes on the walking bridge, the literature on “free love” that is promoted to entice young men to the area, the renovations and rebuilding of stupas and temples, as well as the murals themselves bring needed economic growth to the region. The question for the next few years is, how will the binary opposites of economic growth and traditional values, including a respect for the natural world, the Goddess in the lake and mountain, be balanced with new highways, an airport, and new hotels? The Goddess has survived Kublai Khan and the Cultural Revolution, but can she survive this latest invasion? Time, as always, will tell.

Works and People Cited and Referenced

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Legends related by Mosuo Ethnography Museum Staff, Sadama from the Lugu Lake Tourist Office, and Holiday Hotel Lugu Lake reception staff.

All photos are copyrighted by the author.

(End of the Essay sequels)


(Meet Mago Contributor) Krista Karen Rodin, Ph.D.


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