[Editor’s Note: This and forthcoming parts are the report of pilgrimage visits made during October 2022.]
Jhula Devi Temple
Jhula Devi temple, also dedicated to the Goddess Durga. The temple was first built in the 8th c. According to legend:
ages ago Chaubatia was a dense forest inhabited by a number of wild animals including leopards and tigers. They used to harass the villagers by snatching their livestock. The poor villagers prayed to Maa Durga requesting her to get rid of the danger. The goddess asked a shepherd in his dream to dig up at an instructed place to find an idol and to construct a temple for the idol at that site. The villagers followed her instructions and that got rid of the wild animals, so fearless children now merrily played on swings. Seeing those merry making kids, Maa Durga wished to have her own swing (Jhula). So, she again appeared in one villager’s dream and asked him to give her a Jhula. The devotees placed her on a wooden Jhula in the sanctum sanctorum and since then she was called Mata Jhula Devi.[1]
The current complex was built in 1935. Photography is not allowed in the temple, but the idol is in the main hall which can be seen from the street. The entire complex is filled with bells so tightly placed together that it is amazing there is room for even a small one to be added. The bells are offered to the Goddess (or god in the case of Golu) so that the petitioner’s request will be heard. Once it has been granted, the petitioner returns to the temple to offer another bell as thanks. It seems that the Goddess has been hard at work answering the people’s prayers.
Giriji Devi
I’m very glad I was able to visit this temple in the middle of the Kosi River in Jim Corbett National Park. To get to the temple, one maneuvers through the ubiquitous stalls selling all kinds of offerings and religious memorabilia to get to a large square where there are three large trees that have offerings on them. Leading off from the square is a fairly wide bridge to an island in the middle of the river. As in Dunagiri, the bridge is divided to facilitate to and from movement. At the end of the bridge, there is a set of stairs going down to the sandy beach and more vendor stalls. This is now where one leaves one’s shoes (& socks!) before climbing another couple of sets of rather steep stairs to get to a small square temple. There was a priest offering blessings and another helper taking offerings and giving them to the priest as well as dishing out prasad to the worshipers. Prasad is the term used for the gifting of items, generally food, flowers, or money, to the deity. The priest then blesses the person and prasad is given, most often in the form of sugar candy shaped like rice, or a flour like substance, also shaped like rice, back to the worshiper. Prasad is supposed to be eaten immediately, otherwise bad things can happen. As I don’t eat much sugar, this poses a bit of a problem, so I usually give mine away. The Giriji idol is a doll-like image approximately four and a half feet high wrapped abundantly in regal clothing, similar to Kesar Devi. She is also a form of Durga/Parvati. Giriji’s temple with staircase is shaped like the hill immediately behind the temple, and this hill carries the same name. While there were no crowds at the site on this rainy day, there were still lots of people wishing to be blessed. A whole colony of tents lined the island, most of which were empty, but I can imagine how full they would be on a festival day. This is the main site for the yearly celebration of Kartik Poornima, which will be on Nov. 8th in 2022. During this festival, worshipers are encouraged to take a bath in sacred waters, and the Kosi River fulfills this function blessed by the Goddess, who is a consort of Shiva. There were a few people wading in the river in the rain, and when I washed my feet off, was pleasantly surprised at how warm the water was. It was a good spot to just stand and watch. Just as I was leaving, a cow decided to swim across the river to get to the temple. Perhaps in search of prasad…, cows are sacred animals here.
These eight pilgrimage Devi sites in Kumaon are only a few of the many, but they are the main ones. The region is filled with Durga, Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha and Vishnu imagery. The hills tell stories from mythological history that is accepted as truth by many of the local population. It is a beautiful area, filled with mystery, magic and wonder. The Devi in her myriad forms continues to protect the natural world of the hills, mountains, rivers, flora and fauna of the region.
(End of the Essay)
All photos by the author; much of the text comes from her blogs: https://journals.worldnomads.com/krodin
[1] https://www.gosahin.com/places-to-visit/jhula-devi-temple/ Accessed October 5, 2022.